To Run Flat or not?
- Thread starter Euphoria
- Start date
Re: To Run Flat or not?
Runflat - Even if kaana nail puncture at speed of 120 km/h, it will
be very stable..
But have to change whole tyre, expensive.
Normal : If kenna nail puncture at above speed, you may slightly
lose control of your car, thus dangerous.
Just have to patch the tyre, cheap.
BMW have studied deeply abt this, before they decided Run flat is best.
Car is yours, you decide what is best..
Runflat - Even if kaana nail puncture at speed of 120 km/h, it will
be very stable..
But have to change whole tyre, expensive.
Normal : If kenna nail puncture at above speed, you may slightly
lose control of your car, thus dangerous.
Just have to patch the tyre, cheap.
BMW have studied deeply abt this, before they decided Run flat is best.
Car is yours, you decide what is best..
Re: To Run Flat or not?
I also have nail in my ride last May 1 holiday in Malaysia . It was quite a good experience since my display indicate Tyre inbalance at the N-S highway. Thus slow down and drive to the nearest tyre shop to have them patched. Until now no issues with the patched tyre.
I also have nail in my ride last May 1 holiday in Malaysia . It was quite a good experience since my display indicate Tyre inbalance at the N-S highway. Thus slow down and drive to the nearest tyre shop to have them patched. Until now no issues with the patched tyre.
Re: To Run Flat or not?
Generally RFTs are more expensive. Depending on the type of non RFTs the price difference can be 20 to more than 100%. Run flats also need a way of monitoring for a puncture because there is very little indication of a puncture. Bimmers that are RFT compatible have this usually in the iDrive.
Personally I dislike RFTs because the ride and noise and comfort levels in non RFTs are way better than RFTs. The main advanatage of RFT is tighter handling, safety at high speeds in a flat, and convenience of not have to change the tire yourself. This is a big plus if u drive to Malaysia.
Someone told me this story. Someone driving a BM with RFTs on the NS highway when they were attacked. The assailants threw a tire spike (like something out a ninja movie) which is designed to cause a blow out. The RFT withstood the spike attack and they were able to escape.
If you don't drive up north then there is less need for the RFT. If u get a flat u can call for a tow or AA or use one of the sealants.
When I changed the original RFTs to michelins it was chalk and cheese. My E60 ride suddenly was transformed to 7 series E65 like ride and comfort. The steering was not as tight but I am ah pek so the ride is important. I don't carry a spare. (PML offered to sell me a mini spare with jack for $500+ and additional $45 for installation - installation being putting it into the boot!!)
I also changed my F13 stock 18in RFTs to michellins PSS on 20in. The noise level is superior and the ride is comparable (bear in mind these are 20in). There is no space for spare. I have a battery in in the space made for the spare. Apparently in South Africa the law requires a spare.
bob&cutie;837784 said:
Generally RFTs are more expensive. Depending on the type of non RFTs the price difference can be 20 to more than 100%. Run flats also need a way of monitoring for a puncture because there is very little indication of a puncture. Bimmers that are RFT compatible have this usually in the iDrive.
Personally I dislike RFTs because the ride and noise and comfort levels in non RFTs are way better than RFTs. The main advanatage of RFT is tighter handling, safety at high speeds in a flat, and convenience of not have to change the tire yourself. This is a big plus if u drive to Malaysia.
Someone told me this story. Someone driving a BM with RFTs on the NS highway when they were attacked. The assailants threw a tire spike (like something out a ninja movie) which is designed to cause a blow out. The RFT withstood the spike attack and they were able to escape.
If you don't drive up north then there is less need for the RFT. If u get a flat u can call for a tow or AA or use one of the sealants.
When I changed the original RFTs to michelins it was chalk and cheese. My E60 ride suddenly was transformed to 7 series E65 like ride and comfort. The steering was not as tight but I am ah pek so the ride is important. I don't carry a spare. (PML offered to sell me a mini spare with jack for $500+ and additional $45 for installation - installation being putting it into the boot!!)
I also changed my F13 stock 18in RFTs to michellins PSS on 20in. The noise level is superior and the ride is comparable (bear in mind these are 20in). There is no space for spare. I have a battery in in the space made for the spare. Apparently in South Africa the law requires a spare.
Last edited by a moderator:
156F1
Well-Known Member
Re: To Run Flat or not?
I changed from RFT to normal and enjoyed the softer, quieter ride for a few years and changed back to RFT because I feel more secured driving to M'sia. If you're like me, i.e. less adventurous and too lazy to fix a puncture onsite (either with repair sealant or change to spare wheel), then RFT is heaven. RFTs are not too expensive nowadays as EUR has dropped via-a-vis SGD. I bought my set of CSC3 SSR 245/40/18 at a little more than $400 a piece. The same tyre used to cost $500 a year ago. There're rather limited choices for RFT though, unless you self import. So far I only found CSC3, RE050A and NCT5. Would've like PS2 or CSC5P if available. In terms of grip and handling, my CSC3 SSR is not very different from my previous set of F1 Asym 2.
I changed from RFT to normal and enjoyed the softer, quieter ride for a few years and changed back to RFT because I feel more secured driving to M'sia. If you're like me, i.e. less adventurous and too lazy to fix a puncture onsite (either with repair sealant or change to spare wheel), then RFT is heaven. RFTs are not too expensive nowadays as EUR has dropped via-a-vis SGD. I bought my set of CSC3 SSR 245/40/18 at a little more than $400 a piece. The same tyre used to cost $500 a year ago. There're rather limited choices for RFT though, unless you self import. So far I only found CSC3, RE050A and NCT5. Would've like PS2 or CSC5P if available. In terms of grip and handling, my CSC3 SSR is not very different from my previous set of F1 Asym 2.
Re: To Run Flat or not?
Hi since Bm have this Run flat tyre system I would suggest you stick to it . For ppl who like big rims then have no choice will have to install the sporty tyre to get it matching . If you are not the type that care about the out look then my option is that you stay on the Run flat tyre . Expensive in that sense because of the special feature . Anyway , if you want to change the tyre go for the top brand Michelin ...! Hoping this help . All the best !
Hi since Bm have this Run flat tyre system I would suggest you stick to it . For ppl who like big rims then have no choice will have to install the sporty tyre to get it matching . If you are not the type that care about the out look then my option is that you stay on the Run flat tyre . Expensive in that sense because of the special feature . Anyway , if you want to change the tyre go for the top brand Michelin ...! Hoping this help . All the best !
eng98
Well-Known Member
Re: To Run Flat or not?
I am also looking to replace my set of run flats, 205/55R16. After the original set that came with the car worn out, I went searching for a cheaper brand and found Hankook selling for about $800+/set. I have gone through 2 sets and of course 2 price increase. They are going to be charging about $900+/set. One thing I noticed is that they doesn't seem to last very long. If I don't rotate my tires around 10K, the rear ones will become botak fast and I think overall, they can only last like 20+K.
Anyway like I mentioned, I am looking for alternate cheaper ones. Yes, price is a big consideration factor. So far I found the Tyrepac are selling Bridgestone and Continental for my size for $175 and $180 respectively before GST and installation cost. I have counted, overall if I were to go for either, it will be about $840. However I am open for anyone who can recommend a cheaper source of RFT.
BTW, I am not interested in normal tyres due to my needs. I know people always recommend to ditch the RFT, but everyone has their own needs and skills/knowledge handling flats. My wife and I worked in Tuas and mostly my wife will be driving through the lousy road, filled with all sorts of trash that could get people killed. So with RFT, it is safer o withstand those conditions,.
Anyone has an alternative to recommend or Tyrepac is an Ok choice?
Alex Lee;838146 said:
I am also looking to replace my set of run flats, 205/55R16. After the original set that came with the car worn out, I went searching for a cheaper brand and found Hankook selling for about $800+/set. I have gone through 2 sets and of course 2 price increase. They are going to be charging about $900+/set. One thing I noticed is that they doesn't seem to last very long. If I don't rotate my tires around 10K, the rear ones will become botak fast and I think overall, they can only last like 20+K.
Anyway like I mentioned, I am looking for alternate cheaper ones. Yes, price is a big consideration factor. So far I found the Tyrepac are selling Bridgestone and Continental for my size for $175 and $180 respectively before GST and installation cost. I have counted, overall if I were to go for either, it will be about $840. However I am open for anyone who can recommend a cheaper source of RFT.
BTW, I am not interested in normal tyres due to my needs. I know people always recommend to ditch the RFT, but everyone has their own needs and skills/knowledge handling flats. My wife and I worked in Tuas and mostly my wife will be driving through the lousy road, filled with all sorts of trash that could get people killed. So with RFT, it is safer o withstand those conditions,.
Anyone has an alternative to recommend or Tyrepac is an Ok choice?
SinDevils
Well-Known Member
Re: To Run Flat or not?
It seems that Tyres would last longer with better life span, if regular tyre rotating is done....
In my view, the wear and tear rate of Tyres also contributed by a few other factors:
-the kind of set up and maintenance of absorber or coil over, causing uneven wear rate.
-the camber set up and angle set, may cause uneven wear.
-the condition of rims, if it is warp, would cause uneven wear rate.
-the maintenance of tyre pressures (under/over inflate) & proper wheel alignment, preventing uneven wear rate.
-the driving pattern of the driver, whether negotiating corners at high speed frequently, always sprint/floor from zero once green light and fond of 'E-braking'.
-the profile types and also the choice of Tyres, whether normal, performance, or even semi-slick (soft/sticky).
-the kind and condition of roads usually travelled.
There may be some other factors which I have missed....
Usually, for my case (currently on CSC2 RFT), rotation of tyres (been using CSC2 & CSC3) is done every 5,000 to 6,000 km, and keeping the set of tyres up to 1 to 1.5years or 45,000 to 50,000km, which ever comes first.
So choosing tyre solely based on the retail pricing alone, may not be the most accurate calculation of your ROI/returns/yield... Tyres chosen can be seems cheaper but if always wear out prematurely than expected or when comparison is made with alternatives...you can work out the Math better...
Above are just some of my experience encountered and my feeling, for the past 15 years, for your reference ONLY.
Cheers ^-^
It seems that Tyres would last longer with better life span, if regular tyre rotating is done....
In my view, the wear and tear rate of Tyres also contributed by a few other factors:
-the kind of set up and maintenance of absorber or coil over, causing uneven wear rate.
-the camber set up and angle set, may cause uneven wear.
-the condition of rims, if it is warp, would cause uneven wear rate.
-the maintenance of tyre pressures (under/over inflate) & proper wheel alignment, preventing uneven wear rate.
-the driving pattern of the driver, whether negotiating corners at high speed frequently, always sprint/floor from zero once green light and fond of 'E-braking'.
-the profile types and also the choice of Tyres, whether normal, performance, or even semi-slick (soft/sticky).
-the kind and condition of roads usually travelled.
There may be some other factors which I have missed....
Usually, for my case (currently on CSC2 RFT), rotation of tyres (been using CSC2 & CSC3) is done every 5,000 to 6,000 km, and keeping the set of tyres up to 1 to 1.5years or 45,000 to 50,000km, which ever comes first.
So choosing tyre solely based on the retail pricing alone, may not be the most accurate calculation of your ROI/returns/yield... Tyres chosen can be seems cheaper but if always wear out prematurely than expected or when comparison is made with alternatives...you can work out the Math better...
Above are just some of my experience encountered and my feeling, for the past 15 years, for your reference ONLY.
Cheers ^-^
SinDevils
Well-Known Member
Re: To Run Flat or not?
Anyway, Tyres are the only contact points, between your car and the road....spend it wisely for the sake of your loved ones and yourself!!
You can have very powerful engines, nice set up, great looks, wonderful BBK....but if your Tyres fail you or do not meet up to the same high level of expectations when you first get this nice car....well, good luck...
I am not in any car related trades...but the above are just my 2 cents worth of thoughts.
Cheers.
Anyway, Tyres are the only contact points, between your car and the road....spend it wisely for the sake of your loved ones and yourself!!
You can have very powerful engines, nice set up, great looks, wonderful BBK....but if your Tyres fail you or do not meet up to the same high level of expectations when you first get this nice car....well, good luck...
I am not in any car related trades...but the above are just my 2 cents worth of thoughts.
Cheers.
SinDevils
Well-Known Member
Re: To Run Flat or not?
Hi Bro,
I have just posted : http://www.bmw-sg.com/forums/5-series-owners/67179-how-much-hankook-evo-s1s-17-a.html
Yes, CSC2 is Continental Sports Contact 2.
eng98;838411 said:
Hi Bro,
I have just posted : http://www.bmw-sg.com/forums/5-series-owners/67179-how-much-hankook-evo-s1s-17-a.html
Yes, CSC2 is Continental Sports Contact 2.
