Best semi-slick?
- Thread starter kuvesh
- Start date
MachoMan
Well-Known Member
Re: Best semi-slick?
Guys who use A050 Medium compound, what tyre pressure so you run hot, and what's the weight of your car? I'm just asking because the S2000 trackies in the USA runs 36-37 PSI hot, while factory manual says 32PSI, and experienced guys recommend 30-31 PSI.
Guys who use A050 Medium compound, what tyre pressure so you run hot, and what's the weight of your car? I'm just asking because the S2000 trackies in the USA runs 36-37 PSI hot, while factory manual says 32PSI, and experienced guys recommend 30-31 PSI.
MachoMan
Well-Known Member
Re: Best semi-slick?
Just to clarify, will tarmac temp be a factor since we're talking about hot tyre pressure?
Yea I'm running A050 Medium on my front (225/45R17) and A048 Soft-Med on my rear (255/40R17). Just trying out different tyres and compounds. I heard the RE11S will reach our shore in Sept this year.
Just to clarify, will tarmac temp be a factor since we're talking about hot tyre pressure?
Yea I'm running A050 Medium on my front (225/45R17) and A048 Soft-Med on my rear (255/40R17). Just trying out different tyres and compounds. I heard the RE11S will reach our shore in Sept this year.
Re: Best semi-slick?
Actually hot tire pressures are set independently of tarmac temp. How long it takes the tire and gas to get up to temp, and what temps the compound works best at, are separate issues from what they are set at when once they are settled in at temp.
Hot pressures are set mainly to reach tire spring rate, contact patch size and pressure distribution, and sidewall stability targets. Once tire manufacturers know vehicle weight and distribution and rough downforce levels, they can specify an accurate ideal hot pressure. The compound should be speced right for the expected tread temperature window, else all is lost anyway
Actually hot tire pressures are set independently of tarmac temp. How long it takes the tire and gas to get up to temp, and what temps the compound works best at, are separate issues from what they are set at when once they are settled in at temp.
Hot pressures are set mainly to reach tire spring rate, contact patch size and pressure distribution, and sidewall stability targets. Once tire manufacturers know vehicle weight and distribution and rough downforce levels, they can specify an accurate ideal hot pressure. The compound should be speced right for the expected tread temperature window, else all is lost anyway
MachoMan
Well-Known Member
Re: Best semi-slick?
I read something about Tire Lateral Load Transfer Distribution (TLLTD). For example if you have an overly stiff sway bar, you are introducing more energy to the tyre when you load it. And this additional energy may cause the tyre to slip instead of gripping. I think I should let the professionals take over from here...
So how do we go about finding out what's the optimum tire pressure for our car's weight? The australian yokohama website said 36-37 PSI for the A048 too, and I find that pressure too high.
marklee;626130 said:
I read something about Tire Lateral Load Transfer Distribution (TLLTD). For example if you have an overly stiff sway bar, you are introducing more energy to the tyre when you load it. And this additional energy may cause the tyre to slip instead of gripping. I think I should let the professionals take over from here...
So how do we go about finding out what's the optimum tire pressure for our car's weight? The australian yokohama website said 36-37 PSI for the A048 too, and I find that pressure too high.
Re: Best semi-slick?
Nearly without exception, the increase in a tire's lateral load capacity (cornering ability) diminishes with increased vertical load. This is called tire load sensitivity. The exceptions to this rule are very rare and not an intentional result. Usually it is light cars with very wide tires of a sub optimal compound for those specs, ends up to where a higher CG or increase in total weight can be without penalty, or even increase performance slightly. This is called negative load sensitivity This 0.00X% exception can be ignored. It is essentially unheard of at typical road car weights and tire sizes (even sportscars), especially in this climate. When we refer to load below, it will refer to load from acceleration of mass. Aero load is ignored for simplicity and also because road cars just don't have appreciable amounts of it.
So in our context, it is better to have a lower constant load of say 300 kgf , then have load oscillate at 5 Hz evenly between 150 kgf and 450 kgf and still average 300 kgf over time. The oscillation causes a loss in average grip because the gain in lateral grip for how much vertical load we have, at time spent below 300 kgf, is smaller than the loss in the time spent above 300 kgf. In real rig tests, a race tire at working temperature, being steered at 3 degrees and being oscillated at 10 Hz at 3 mm amplitude, can lose 35% of it's lateral force (as recorded at constant load, no oscillation). 35% is a huge loss and you can imagine its effects on laptime.
So once a tire is up to nominal working temperature, load fluctuation hurts grip. The suspension spring and the tire, are basically 2 springs in series. The more you stiffen one up, the higher the peak forces the other will experience. Damping valving will modify the loads further, but that's a very long and separate post. Suffice to say, how you minimize load fluctuation (and therefore grip loss) at the tire contact patch, is to run the softest suspension that the driver can tolerate (response lag). The only other soft limits are suspension kinematics being poor at larger suspension sweeps or in a specific range, and body to ground and/or tire to body clearance. In an aero car you will have to consider aero effects of larger body movements too, but that's not applicable in our context.
In cold climates and in very short sprint races there is less negative effect from running stiffer. The higher forces imparted to the tire help get its temperature up more quickly and within a very short duration run this is exactly what may be needed. In the cold, and in the short term, any loss in grip from the oscillations can be more than offset by the rubber getting up to nominal working temperature quicker, and if the driver needs a lot of feel from the car and to make more corrections on the spot as he drives his laps, the net result can be faster laps. Putting energy into the tire can be done with higher spring rates, higher spring preload, aggressive alignment that deflects and scrubs the tire, or the driver intentionally loading and/or scrubbing the tire.
Once you change to our local context with this hot, sunny climate, with high power, overweight cars, undersize tires, on a big track where brakes are often overheated and heating the rim and tire, with enthusiast drivers who are usually too rough with the car, running for durations much longer than a short sprint - it is clear that there is nothing to gain from stiff suspension unless running into earlier mentioned soft limits. But those soft limits will be beyond what stock suspension is, so run the stock stuff, learn how to handle a soft car, and you'll be better off in the longer term as a driver. Once that is burned in brain, you'll never forget it even when you move to stiffer cars in the future (stiff relative to stock road cars, but soft (and superior) on the scale of that new class of car).
===
Simon, if you're reading about TLLTD you must be reading quite a bit heheh. That's great! TLLTD has more to do with car balance in steady state or near steady state portions of turns though, and less to do with why on a sorted car with good suspension design stiff suspension hurts grip. It's true though that a stiff ARB will load the outside tire at that end more. Same for stiff springs, or stiff damping, etc. Good stuff mate.
Has your Carl Lopez book arrived? I took a quick look at your data and if you read the book your ordered, where you can improve should be obvious right away - of course you have to learn to use the software properly first and lay out everything so you're forming an accurate picture you can compare to concepts in the book. You're still in the zone where you can drop 2 - 3 seconds in time and still end up taking no extra risk or even take a little less risk doing so. Those types of zero tradeoff changes can only come from line correction and are the lowest hanging fruit. I don't want to spoon feed you since it's bad for both of us, but show proof that you've put in a few hours of your own really working out the basics (the info is all over the net in the very obvious places), and where you're stuck - and I'll definitely help you with the more advanced stuff that can't be found elsewhere, not even textbooks.
The basics are namely:
- set and save an accurate lap marker that's used as a constant for all future laps
- create a track map on google earth, and if it is not on google earth, or obscured by clouds, create one by driving the track boundary
- learn to overlay laps accurately especially on the map. Learn how to compromise for gps drift accurately so you can make accurate positional comparisons
- know significance of time / distance axis and what it really means to see cursors ahead or behind in either mode
- know importance of true positional comparison
- learn how to do a proper and clean acceleration comparison over a speed or distance range
- use average, min, max of defined sectors properly
- define sectors properly (3 ways for 3 different purposes) and understand why
These basics will let you test nearly any driving concept, and quantify tradeoffs. From these tests you will be able to filter out all the rubbish talkers (~95% of enthusiasts, ~50% of 'pros', ~5% of real pros), and anchor yourself in the ones that speak truth.
I've had guys look for free guidance, free analysis without so much as putting in just 5 hours of their own time and acting like they're trying. But it's too obvious that they're not and I stop bothering.
marklee;626130 said:
Nearly without exception, the increase in a tire's lateral load capacity (cornering ability) diminishes with increased vertical load. This is called tire load sensitivity. The exceptions to this rule are very rare and not an intentional result. Usually it is light cars with very wide tires of a sub optimal compound for those specs, ends up to where a higher CG or increase in total weight can be without penalty, or even increase performance slightly. This is called negative load sensitivity This 0.00X% exception can be ignored. It is essentially unheard of at typical road car weights and tire sizes (even sportscars), especially in this climate. When we refer to load below, it will refer to load from acceleration of mass. Aero load is ignored for simplicity and also because road cars just don't have appreciable amounts of it.
So in our context, it is better to have a lower constant load of say 300 kgf , then have load oscillate at 5 Hz evenly between 150 kgf and 450 kgf and still average 300 kgf over time. The oscillation causes a loss in average grip because the gain in lateral grip for how much vertical load we have, at time spent below 300 kgf, is smaller than the loss in the time spent above 300 kgf. In real rig tests, a race tire at working temperature, being steered at 3 degrees and being oscillated at 10 Hz at 3 mm amplitude, can lose 35% of it's lateral force (as recorded at constant load, no oscillation). 35% is a huge loss and you can imagine its effects on laptime.
So once a tire is up to nominal working temperature, load fluctuation hurts grip. The suspension spring and the tire, are basically 2 springs in series. The more you stiffen one up, the higher the peak forces the other will experience. Damping valving will modify the loads further, but that's a very long and separate post. Suffice to say, how you minimize load fluctuation (and therefore grip loss) at the tire contact patch, is to run the softest suspension that the driver can tolerate (response lag). The only other soft limits are suspension kinematics being poor at larger suspension sweeps or in a specific range, and body to ground and/or tire to body clearance. In an aero car you will have to consider aero effects of larger body movements too, but that's not applicable in our context.
In cold climates and in very short sprint races there is less negative effect from running stiffer. The higher forces imparted to the tire help get its temperature up more quickly and within a very short duration run this is exactly what may be needed. In the cold, and in the short term, any loss in grip from the oscillations can be more than offset by the rubber getting up to nominal working temperature quicker, and if the driver needs a lot of feel from the car and to make more corrections on the spot as he drives his laps, the net result can be faster laps. Putting energy into the tire can be done with higher spring rates, higher spring preload, aggressive alignment that deflects and scrubs the tire, or the driver intentionally loading and/or scrubbing the tire.
Once you change to our local context with this hot, sunny climate, with high power, overweight cars, undersize tires, on a big track where brakes are often overheated and heating the rim and tire, with enthusiast drivers who are usually too rough with the car, running for durations much longer than a short sprint - it is clear that there is nothing to gain from stiff suspension unless running into earlier mentioned soft limits. But those soft limits will be beyond what stock suspension is, so run the stock stuff, learn how to handle a soft car, and you'll be better off in the longer term as a driver. Once that is burned in brain, you'll never forget it even when you move to stiffer cars in the future (stiff relative to stock road cars, but soft (and superior) on the scale of that new class of car).
===
Simon, if you're reading about TLLTD you must be reading quite a bit heheh. That's great! TLLTD has more to do with car balance in steady state or near steady state portions of turns though, and less to do with why on a sorted car with good suspension design stiff suspension hurts grip. It's true though that a stiff ARB will load the outside tire at that end more. Same for stiff springs, or stiff damping, etc. Good stuff mate.
Has your Carl Lopez book arrived? I took a quick look at your data and if you read the book your ordered, where you can improve should be obvious right away - of course you have to learn to use the software properly first and lay out everything so you're forming an accurate picture you can compare to concepts in the book. You're still in the zone where you can drop 2 - 3 seconds in time and still end up taking no extra risk or even take a little less risk doing so. Those types of zero tradeoff changes can only come from line correction and are the lowest hanging fruit. I don't want to spoon feed you since it's bad for both of us, but show proof that you've put in a few hours of your own really working out the basics (the info is all over the net in the very obvious places), and where you're stuck - and I'll definitely help you with the more advanced stuff that can't be found elsewhere, not even textbooks.
The basics are namely:
- set and save an accurate lap marker that's used as a constant for all future laps
- create a track map on google earth, and if it is not on google earth, or obscured by clouds, create one by driving the track boundary
- learn to overlay laps accurately especially on the map. Learn how to compromise for gps drift accurately so you can make accurate positional comparisons
- know significance of time / distance axis and what it really means to see cursors ahead or behind in either mode
- know importance of true positional comparison
- learn how to do a proper and clean acceleration comparison over a speed or distance range
- use average, min, max of defined sectors properly
- define sectors properly (3 ways for 3 different purposes) and understand why
These basics will let you test nearly any driving concept, and quantify tradeoffs. From these tests you will be able to filter out all the rubbish talkers (~95% of enthusiasts, ~50% of 'pros', ~5% of real pros), and anchor yourself in the ones that speak truth.
I've had guys look for free guidance, free analysis without so much as putting in just 5 hours of their own time and acting like they're trying. But it's too obvious that they're not and I stop bothering.
Re: Best semi-slick?
Nearly without exception, the increase in a tire's lateral load capacity (cornering ability) diminishes with increased vertical load. This is called tire load sensitivity. The exceptions to this rule are very rare and not an intentional result. Usually it is light cars with very wide tires of a sub optimal compound for those specs, ends up to where a higher CG or increase in total weight can be without penalty, or even increase performance slightly. This is called negative load sensitivity This 0.00X% exception can be ignored. It is essentially unheard of at typical road car weights and tire sizes (even sportscars), especially in this climate. When we refer to load below, it will refer to load from acceleration of mass. Aero load is ignored for simplicity and also because road cars just don't have appreciable amounts of it.
So in our context, it is better to have a lower constant load of say 300 kgf , then have load oscillate at 5 Hz evenly between 150 kgf and 450 kgf and still average 300 kgf over time. The oscillation causes a loss in average grip because the gain in lateral grip for how much vertical load we have, at time spent below 300 kgf, is smaller than the loss in the time spent above 300 kgf. In real rig tests, a race tire at working temperature, being steered at 3 degrees and being oscillated at 10 Hz at 3 mm amplitude on a sinusoidal wave, can lose 28% of it's lateral force (vs as recorded at constant load, no oscillation). 28% is a huge loss and you can imagine its effects on laptime.
So once a tire is up to nominal working temperature, load fluctuation hurts grip. The suspension spring and the tire, are basically 2 springs in series. The more you stiffen one up, the higher the peak forces the other will experience. Damping valving will modify the loads further, but that's a very long and separate post. Suffice to say, how you minimize load fluctuation (and therefore grip loss) at the tire contact patch, is to run the softest suspension that the driver can tolerate (response lag). The only other soft limits are suspension kinematics being poor at larger suspension sweeps or in a specific range, and body to ground and/or tire to body clearance. In an aero car you will have to consider aero effects of larger body movements too, but that's not applicable in our context.
In cold climates and in very short sprint races there is less negative effect from running stiffer. The higher forces imparted to the tire help get its temperature up more quickly and within a very short duration run this is exactly what may be needed. In the cold, and in the short term, any loss in grip from the oscillations can be more than offset by the rubber getting up to nominal working temperature quicker, and if the driver needs a lot of feel from the car and to make more corrections on the spot as he drives his laps, the net result can be faster laps. Putting energy into the tire can be done with higher spring rates, higher spring preload, aggressive alignment that deflects and/or scrubs the tire, or the driver intentionally loading and/or scrubbing the tire.
Once you change to our local context with this hot, sunny climate, with high power, overweight cars, undersize tires, on a big track where brakes are often overheated and heating the rim and tire, with enthusiast drivers who are usually too rough with the car, running for durations much longer than a short sprint - it is clear that there is nothing to gain from stiff suspension unless running into earlier mentioned soft limits. But those soft limits will be beyond what stock suspension is, so run the stock stuff, learn how to handle a soft car, and you'll be better off in the longer term as a driver. Once that is burned in brain, you'll never forget it even when you move to stiffer cars in the future (stiff relative to stock road cars, but soft (and superior) on the scale of that new class of car).
===
Simon, if you're reading about TLLTD you must be reading quite a bit heheh. That's great! TLLTD has more to do with car balance in steady state or near steady state portions of turns though, and less to do with why on a sorted car with good suspension design stiff suspension hurts grip. It's true though that a stiff ARB will load the outside tire at that end more. Same for stiff springs, or stiff damping, etc. Good stuff mate.
Has your Carl Lopez book arrived? I took a quick look at your data and if you read the book your ordered, where you can improve should be obvious right away - of course you have to learn to use the software properly first and lay out everything so you're forming an accurate picture you can compare to concepts in the book. You're still in the zone where you can drop 2 - 3 seconds in time and still end up taking no extra risk or even take a little less risk doing so. Those types of zero tradeoff changes can only come from line correction and are the lowest hanging fruit. I don't want to spoon feed you since it's bad for both of us, but show proof that you've put in a few hours of your own really working out the basics (the info is all over the net in the very obvious places), and where you're stuck - and I'll definitely help you with the more advanced stuff that can't be found elsewhere, not even textbooks.
The basics are namely:
- set and save an accurate lap marker that's used as a constant for all future laps
- create a track map on google earth, and if it is not on google earth, or obscured by clouds, create one by driving the track boundary
- learn to overlay laps accurately especially on the map. Learn how to compromise for gps drift accurately so you can make accurate positional comparisons
- know significance of time / distance axis and what it really means to see cursors ahead or behind in either mode
- know importance of true positional comparison
- learn how to do a proper and clean acceleration comparison over a speed or distance range
- use average, min, max of defined sectors properly
- define sectors properly (3 ways for 3 different purposes) and understand why
These basics will let you test nearly any driving concept, and quantify tradeoffs. From these tests you will be able to filter out all the rubbish talkers (~95% of enthusiasts, ~50% of 'pros', ~3% or less of real pros), and anchor yourself in the ones that speak truth.
I've had guys look for free guidance, free analysis without so much as putting in just 5 hours of their own time and acting like they're trying. But it's too obvious that they're not and I stop bothering.
marklee;626130 said:
Nearly without exception, the increase in a tire's lateral load capacity (cornering ability) diminishes with increased vertical load. This is called tire load sensitivity. The exceptions to this rule are very rare and not an intentional result. Usually it is light cars with very wide tires of a sub optimal compound for those specs, ends up to where a higher CG or increase in total weight can be without penalty, or even increase performance slightly. This is called negative load sensitivity This 0.00X% exception can be ignored. It is essentially unheard of at typical road car weights and tire sizes (even sportscars), especially in this climate. When we refer to load below, it will refer to load from acceleration of mass. Aero load is ignored for simplicity and also because road cars just don't have appreciable amounts of it.
So in our context, it is better to have a lower constant load of say 300 kgf , then have load oscillate at 5 Hz evenly between 150 kgf and 450 kgf and still average 300 kgf over time. The oscillation causes a loss in average grip because the gain in lateral grip for how much vertical load we have, at time spent below 300 kgf, is smaller than the loss in the time spent above 300 kgf. In real rig tests, a race tire at working temperature, being steered at 3 degrees and being oscillated at 10 Hz at 3 mm amplitude on a sinusoidal wave, can lose 28% of it's lateral force (vs as recorded at constant load, no oscillation). 28% is a huge loss and you can imagine its effects on laptime.
So once a tire is up to nominal working temperature, load fluctuation hurts grip. The suspension spring and the tire, are basically 2 springs in series. The more you stiffen one up, the higher the peak forces the other will experience. Damping valving will modify the loads further, but that's a very long and separate post. Suffice to say, how you minimize load fluctuation (and therefore grip loss) at the tire contact patch, is to run the softest suspension that the driver can tolerate (response lag). The only other soft limits are suspension kinematics being poor at larger suspension sweeps or in a specific range, and body to ground and/or tire to body clearance. In an aero car you will have to consider aero effects of larger body movements too, but that's not applicable in our context.
In cold climates and in very short sprint races there is less negative effect from running stiffer. The higher forces imparted to the tire help get its temperature up more quickly and within a very short duration run this is exactly what may be needed. In the cold, and in the short term, any loss in grip from the oscillations can be more than offset by the rubber getting up to nominal working temperature quicker, and if the driver needs a lot of feel from the car and to make more corrections on the spot as he drives his laps, the net result can be faster laps. Putting energy into the tire can be done with higher spring rates, higher spring preload, aggressive alignment that deflects and/or scrubs the tire, or the driver intentionally loading and/or scrubbing the tire.
Once you change to our local context with this hot, sunny climate, with high power, overweight cars, undersize tires, on a big track where brakes are often overheated and heating the rim and tire, with enthusiast drivers who are usually too rough with the car, running for durations much longer than a short sprint - it is clear that there is nothing to gain from stiff suspension unless running into earlier mentioned soft limits. But those soft limits will be beyond what stock suspension is, so run the stock stuff, learn how to handle a soft car, and you'll be better off in the longer term as a driver. Once that is burned in brain, you'll never forget it even when you move to stiffer cars in the future (stiff relative to stock road cars, but soft (and superior) on the scale of that new class of car).
===
Simon, if you're reading about TLLTD you must be reading quite a bit heheh. That's great! TLLTD has more to do with car balance in steady state or near steady state portions of turns though, and less to do with why on a sorted car with good suspension design stiff suspension hurts grip. It's true though that a stiff ARB will load the outside tire at that end more. Same for stiff springs, or stiff damping, etc. Good stuff mate.
Has your Carl Lopez book arrived? I took a quick look at your data and if you read the book your ordered, where you can improve should be obvious right away - of course you have to learn to use the software properly first and lay out everything so you're forming an accurate picture you can compare to concepts in the book. You're still in the zone where you can drop 2 - 3 seconds in time and still end up taking no extra risk or even take a little less risk doing so. Those types of zero tradeoff changes can only come from line correction and are the lowest hanging fruit. I don't want to spoon feed you since it's bad for both of us, but show proof that you've put in a few hours of your own really working out the basics (the info is all over the net in the very obvious places), and where you're stuck - and I'll definitely help you with the more advanced stuff that can't be found elsewhere, not even textbooks.
The basics are namely:
- set and save an accurate lap marker that's used as a constant for all future laps
- create a track map on google earth, and if it is not on google earth, or obscured by clouds, create one by driving the track boundary
- learn to overlay laps accurately especially on the map. Learn how to compromise for gps drift accurately so you can make accurate positional comparisons
- know significance of time / distance axis and what it really means to see cursors ahead or behind in either mode
- know importance of true positional comparison
- learn how to do a proper and clean acceleration comparison over a speed or distance range
- use average, min, max of defined sectors properly
- define sectors properly (3 ways for 3 different purposes) and understand why
These basics will let you test nearly any driving concept, and quantify tradeoffs. From these tests you will be able to filter out all the rubbish talkers (~95% of enthusiasts, ~50% of 'pros', ~3% or less of real pros), and anchor yourself in the ones that speak truth.
I've had guys look for free guidance, free analysis without so much as putting in just 5 hours of their own time and acting like they're trying. But it's too obvious that they're not and I stop bothering.
Re: Best semi-slick?
I ordered Pirelli P-Zero Trofeo......how??
Good or not??
Jack recommend one....... ;p
'The Great White'
I ordered Pirelli P-Zero Trofeo......how??
Good or not??
Jack recommend one....... ;p
'The Great White'
Re: Best semi-slick?
Kiasu scared? Nothing to be scared of unless you enter competition that tightly controls vehicle spec, leaving only driver to differentiate. Few to no rules at open trackdays and time attacks.. just keep on buying a faster car
BTW, looking at the new data; as predicted before last trackday, new car is indeed faster than old.. and you're looking at 27s, 26s....
But there should be a new exotic hitting the track soon, driven by a good driver not in the usual group that melts everyone's face off with 24s out of the box on the stock semi.... all you guys better be scared... time to upgrade to Mclaren lol.
totoseow;627031 said:
Kiasu scared? Nothing to be scared of unless you enter competition that tightly controls vehicle spec, leaving only driver to differentiate. Few to no rules at open trackdays and time attacks.. just keep on buying a faster car
BTW, looking at the new data; as predicted before last trackday, new car is indeed faster than old.. and you're looking at 27s, 26s....
But there should be a new exotic hitting the track soon, driven by a good driver not in the usual group that melts everyone's face off with 24s out of the box on the stock semi.... all you guys better be scared... time to upgrade to Mclaren lol.
LBXX, can you give me secret investment formula? You invest then I take dividend type?
MachoMan
Well-Known Member
Re: Best semi-slick?
Hi Shaun,
Thank you for taking the time to explain. I think I understand a bit of what you meant about a car being overly stiff. I think that's what's happening to my car. My spring rates are 16kg/mm. On the semi slicks it didn't feel too bad, but on the RE11 the lack of grip is quite apparent.
I can't say that I've been reading that much. I happen to come across TLLTD when I was researching on ARB, and came across it on a grassroot motorsports forum. I then went on to google more on the topic.
Unfortunately, there was some hiccup with my Carl Lopez book and it's not coming anymore. So I placed an order on Amazon and I should get it at the end of April or early May. From my own amateur analysis, I can probably shave off a few seconds by getting the line and throttling points right. I was also not putting on enough throttle in the sweepers like T5-T6, T12-T13 thus the car felt a bit unstable and cost me quite a bit of time there. Actually my initial plan on using the data is in the order as follow:
1. Line
2. Braking point
3. Consistency
4. Use the lat & long 'G' to determine where I can increase the speed
Not sure if that makes any sense to you though. LOL. I'm still trying to make sense of the 'basics' that you mention. I'll put some more thought into it in the next few days. I have a .cir file of SIC already, and I know how to move the axis (either the run or the overlay), but I've yet to learn how to compensate for GPS drift. I'm quite familiar with how GPS works though. But the user manual that came with the Driftbox software isn't very comprehensive to begin with. Do you recommend using the Driftbox tool or the Circuit tool? Actually I came across another two books called "Analysis Techniques for Race Car Data Acquisition" by Jorge Segers and "Data Logging Manual" by Graham Templemen. Ever heard of them? But I think the Carl Lopez book should keep me busy for a while when it arrives, so I held back on buying these books.
Not heavy duty type at all. Just trying to sound like one, yet can't drive fast for nuts! I'm trying to work on that though.
Enjoy the weekend guys!
Shaun;627008 said:
Hi Shaun,
Thank you for taking the time to explain. I think I understand a bit of what you meant about a car being overly stiff. I think that's what's happening to my car. My spring rates are 16kg/mm. On the semi slicks it didn't feel too bad, but on the RE11 the lack of grip is quite apparent.
I can't say that I've been reading that much. I happen to come across TLLTD when I was researching on ARB, and came across it on a grassroot motorsports forum. I then went on to google more on the topic.
Unfortunately, there was some hiccup with my Carl Lopez book and it's not coming anymore. So I placed an order on Amazon and I should get it at the end of April or early May. From my own amateur analysis, I can probably shave off a few seconds by getting the line and throttling points right. I was also not putting on enough throttle in the sweepers like T5-T6, T12-T13 thus the car felt a bit unstable and cost me quite a bit of time there. Actually my initial plan on using the data is in the order as follow:
1. Line
2. Braking point
3. Consistency
4. Use the lat & long 'G' to determine where I can increase the speed
Not sure if that makes any sense to you though. LOL. I'm still trying to make sense of the 'basics' that you mention. I'll put some more thought into it in the next few days. I have a .cir file of SIC already, and I know how to move the axis (either the run or the overlay), but I've yet to learn how to compensate for GPS drift. I'm quite familiar with how GPS works though. But the user manual that came with the Driftbox software isn't very comprehensive to begin with. Do you recommend using the Driftbox tool or the Circuit tool? Actually I came across another two books called "Analysis Techniques for Race Car Data Acquisition" by Jorge Segers and "Data Logging Manual" by Graham Templemen. Ever heard of them? But I think the Carl Lopez book should keep me busy for a while when it arrives, so I held back on buying these books.
totoseow;627031 said:
Not heavy duty type at all. Just trying to sound like one, yet can't drive fast for nuts! I'm trying to work on that though.
This kind of lobang, I also want!!
Enjoy the weekend guys!
