RAMMAT Sound Proofing

[jaskin]

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of enhancing my sound. Since I have gotten all my gear already I guess its time to do some tweaking. I've been offered $260 per roll of rammat sound proofing material that can cover 2 layers. It weighs about 10 KGs. This is the picture of the product.

What does sound proofing do? Aren't our BMW already very 'sound proofed'? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Jason

 

[__iceman__]

That's what I thought too. Until I lifted the rear sparetyre board and saw bare metal all over!

Does the coupe have less soundproofing for a more 'raw' driving sensation? :roll:

To be fair, the car's quite ok lah. Can be considered quiet. The only sound I hear are some outside noises from the frameless windows, and a hint of tyre noise (18" Michelin Pilot Sport).

There are two reasons to soundproof yr car:

1. Cut down exterior/road noise

2. Enhance ICE by reducing vibrations and 'solidifying' your bass.

Number 1 ain't that easy. We're talking about soundproofing the whole floor pan (RAAMAT can, but need to add 9mm condensed sponge sheet too), and RAAMAT all over front and rear tyre arches, for this is where road noise gets transmitted thru. The boot floor's bare area is also another culprit for noise transmission. And then when it rains... aw man... that pitter patter on the road. RAAMAT can also go on the roof. Summary - a lot of work, and installer will charge you arm and leg.

Number 2. Soundproof where it matters. The front doors! What you want is for the RAAMAT go double layer. One on the outer door skin, and one on the metal carcass closest to the interior. On the carcass, we want to SEAL up every hole there so that the door effectively becomes a speaker enclosure. Your 6.5" speaker will now start to pump bass with more power and authority. Bear in mind that its not only RAAMAT, but you'll need to buffer here and there with sponge for areas that vibrate.

If you have subwoofers in the rear, then soundproofing the bare metal panels will tighten the bass a little, but the real thing about this soundproofing in the boot is to try to make it air tight, and to dampen all noise coming from vibrating panels.

 

[jaskin]

What's the normal price for a roll of sound proofing material?

 

[Ghostrider]

Someone told me this before and I totally agree...

Best soundproofing is....GET A SUB to drown the low frequency out !!

Sound proofing I important but not totally necessary....cos if one thinks that slapping on some materials will convert the ride into a Lexus....then he/she is in for a nasty surprise.

For coupe...I suggest the do up your doors. The door is larger than usual cars and thus will be subjected to more vibrations. As for your boot...do up a layer to dampen the noise. IMHO...the most effective area is to do up the wheel arches....that is the place that transmit the most noise thru.

My ex car had double layered all round....the boot made a big diff as I am playing free air....

 

[__iceman__]

The RAAMAT is well priced for purpose made SP material.

Dynamat extreme can be up to $450 per box.

However go ask your installer on the charges first, it can be quite a bit of work.

 

[Rastaman]

Hi Jason

I would recommend to go for dynamat, 450 per box i abt right on the price but it consists of 10pcs. i DIYed my whole Honda Stream (front/rear doors and rear boot - double layer) and i still had spare left (2sheets) . Improves the SQ/bass a lot !! and of course exterior noise !

I'm thinking of doing it for my coupe but trying to figure out how to remove the panel :wavey:

If u DIY u should save a bundle but it takes a lot of effort and time but worth it. If u get the installers to do it incldg dynamat, would easily cost 1k minimum

 

[__iceman__]

Dynamat extreme is one of best materials I've come across so far. But its expensive... from the looks of the photos, the Raamat may come close. Not sure coz I haven't tried.

 

[MaVrk]

Hi Guys,

I've actually considered soundproofing as an option.

Had a set of DLS 6.5 speakers installed on e46 front. However,
i get tons of rattling when it's played hard, esp with low frequencies, hip hop bass kinda stuff.

Am finding it damn irritating. As it seems my ROI on the speakers isn't coming at all. Hoping that installing dynamat will reduce these pesky vibrations. Do you think it'd solve the problem.

If it does, could you pass me a list of installers who could do a good job. Anybody done it before, please share exps.

Thanks buds!

 

[__iceman__]

Definitely soundproofing is the solution!

Two uses -

1. To dampen all vibrating panels, and metal pieces in yr door. Note that not only Dynamat extreme, but you'll need to employ sponge or foam in certain areas as padding. When I had 8" woofers in my front doors and was whacking high intensity bass, I found that I had to line and wrap every single metal rod in foam.

2. To create a 'sealed' enclosure in your door. If you are expecting bass, you need to give the speaker its enclosure to work in. Soundproofing would be then employed to seal up all the holes in the metal panel, and make it a good enclosure to reinforce the pumping of bass.

For installers, poll the audience... many are capable of doing a good job. Tye, Hong Guan, Swift Motion, Chuan Sing, King's way etc. All do a good job coz they know what they're after.

Most importantly, be sure to audtion the job after soundproofing, and highlight every rattle you hear. In cases where you have really good speakers and are pumping lots of power into them, it can take several tries on soundproofing the doors to resolve every single rattle.

 

[MaVrk]

Hey iceman,

Thanks for the thinkers.

Holy cow, you had 8 inch on ur front doors huh? Tats damn heavy duty man. I'm sure it took quite abit of surgery. It must be pumping kick-ass bass dude.

How much would dynamat cost? As in soundproofing the front doors? Last time, an installer told me that 2 pieces of dynamat on the front door would do the trick. Was quoted abt $200 I think? Is that possible?

When I installed my speakers, the clown told me that i did't need dynamat or wassit rammat? So I guess I went for it. Now, every rattle is driving me nuts.

Would appreciate some food for thought. Cheers!

 

[Ghostrider]

Definitely soundproofing is the solution!

Two uses -

1. To dampen all vibrating panels, and metal pieces in yr door. Note that not only Dynamat extreme, but you'll need to employ sponge or foam in certain areas as padding. When I had 8" woofers in my front doors and was whacking high intensity bass, I found that I had to line and wrap every single metal rod in foam.

2. To create a 'sealed' enclosure in your door. If you are expecting bass, you need to give the speaker its enclosure to work in. Soundproofing would be then employed to seal up all the holes in the metal panel, and make it a good enclosure to reinforce the pumping of bass.

For installers, poll the audience... many are capable of doing a good job. Tye, Hong Guan, Swift Motion, Chuan Sing, King's way etc. All do a good job coz they know what they're after.

Most importantly, be sure to audtion the job after soundproofing, and highlight every rattle you hear. In cases where you have really good speakers and are pumping lots of power into them, it can take several tries on soundproofing the doors to resolve every single rattle.

Bro, if you are ever going back that route....try using Hong Guan's tuning sponge from CAE...these are good stuff. You put rite behind your speakers to control the vibrations. I had it before...beats sound proofing to achive that.

 

[MaVrk]

Ghostrider,

Thanks for the inputs buddy. Tuning sponge? I think it's quite similar to the stock sponge that comes with the stock speakers rite? Does it work the same way? Eliminates all vibrations? Forgive me as I'm abit kiasu. Had my door panels removed quite a no. of times already, changing speakers thrice, fixing power window, repairing leak.

So I guess i wanna make sure it's done and successful once and for all. Is it a good idea to combine CAE sponge with dynamat to address rattling/vibrating panels.

Was just thinking that at the rate i'm pulling out my panels, this would weaken panel pins and aggravate rattling problems.

Would appreciate advice. Thanks

 

[__iceman__]

MaVrk

Dynamat raw material cost would be about $450 per box, as stated previously.. one box comes with 9 pcs. 1 pc would cover 1 door, for single layer.

It really depends how much the installer would charge for material + labour. Its quite subjective.

In the past, my projects were more or less just experiments to prove theories to myself, and just let 'er rip kinda attitude. The 8" in the doors was just to give myself a bang in the face coz I was craving for upfront bass.

 

[MaVrk]

Iceman,

U sound like a hardcore SPL dude man.

I guess the kick-ass but kick-face bass in your case is something really good to wake u up in the morning on ur way to work huh.

I subscribe to that, nuthin like wicked bass to psyche urself up for work...ahhahaha. A better alternative that a hot shower in the morn.

How many layers did ya put on the doors? 2 layers??? Need feedback form the experience ones wif sound-proofing instead of going the trial and error way.

8 inches of hard-core bass in the fronts, what abt the rear boot. 2 10" or 2 12 "? Tat wld give ur rear passengers the OSIM experience huh?hahaha

Btw, 2 amps for the 8 inch? or issit a 2 channel amp?