Delicious Thought
- Thread starter Racebred
- Start date
T6
Well-Known Member
Re: Delicious Thought
While do-able, u maybe better off trading in your 520 for a 530 and enjoy the other stuff that comes with the 530 such as sunroof, xenon etc.
Trade off for higher road tax is that u won't have to worry abt being "caught" and u will have a ride where all the parts are meant for each other.
JHLim said:
While do-able, u maybe better off trading in your 520 for a 530 and enjoy the other stuff that comes with the 530 such as sunroof, xenon etc.
Trade off for higher road tax is that u won't have to worry abt being "caught" and u will have a ride where all the parts are meant for each other.
rotor_head
Member
even though BMW labled the 2.2, 2.5 and 3.0liter engines as the M54 engine, there are some rather fundamental differences, mainly to do with the emiissions and ECU tuning. the 3.0L engine from the factory is classified as an ULEV engine i.e. Ultra Low Emissions Vehicle, whereas the 2.2L and 2.5L are not.
So even though you could increase the displacement of the 2.2L engine to a 3.0L, you are still not running the full spec "530i"... this is purely a matter of personal choice... faced with the same situation, i would not do it.
So even though you could increase the displacement of the 2.2L engine to a 3.0L, you are still not running the full spec "530i"... this is purely a matter of personal choice... faced with the same situation, i would not do it.
gp
Well-Known Member
Re: Delicious Thought
Hi JHLim,
I am Lim too
Can't advise you on the technical aspect, but I will let you know about the fuel consumption. I am driving a 2002 E39 530iA. My FC ranges from 10.8 to 12.2 litres per 100km (according to the OBC). It is more frugal than my previous E36 323iA saloon.
Ride is comfortable but less sporty than my E36 ie less chuckable because of the size I guess.
I am with T6 and the rest. Get the bigger cc if you need the power. Dropping a bigger engine is illegal to start with and there are so many things that can potentially go wrong. Take your time and look around, there are quite a few good bargains.
JHLim said:
Hi JHLim,
I am Lim too
Can't advise you on the technical aspect, but I will let you know about the fuel consumption. I am driving a 2002 E39 530iA. My FC ranges from 10.8 to 12.2 litres per 100km (according to the OBC). It is more frugal than my previous E36 323iA saloon.
Ride is comfortable but less sporty than my E36 ie less chuckable because of the size I guess.
I am with T6 and the rest. Get the bigger cc if you need the power. Dropping a bigger engine is illegal to start with and there are so many things that can potentially go wrong. Take your time and look around, there are quite a few good bargains.
Thanks guys, you all been a great help and advice.
I just love the 5 series so much... will take your advice to get either a used E39 530iA or drive the current 520 for another 2-3 yrs, sell it and buy the latest 530 used.
I envy you qp, the 530 is my dream car within my budget.
I just love the 5 series so much... will take your advice to get either a used E39 530iA or drive the current 520 for another 2-3 yrs, sell it and buy the latest 530 used.
I envy you qp, the 530 is my dream car within my budget.
T6
Well-Known Member
JHLim said:
A used e39 530i is really reasonably priced now and I feel now is the best time to get them as existing owners upgrade to the e60 or other rides. Otherwise they get exported. Buy them later and the few left in SG wld probably wld have gone thru a few hands already.
Juz like u, I am gonna enjoy my e39 for a few more years and "downgrade" to the new 3 series e90 when the e90 is on the mkt for a few years. I am a sucker for buying second hand lah and I can bear to fork out $200k for a e90. I feel size wise, e90 might be more suited for me. Hope to see u at Sun's meet.
arsenal62
Well-Known Member
T6 said:
Hello, you can not label yourself as a sucker for buying 2nd hand car, in fact is the correct and cost effective way in SGP of buying car. I bought couple of brand new BMW car and got the heavy knocked
range from SGD40k to SGD50k (exclude add on item) for 1 year owning of BMW brand. No deny, BMW nice to drive but 1st owner get the worst knock and the best buy is 1 to 2 years old used one and gonna save lot of $$$ to add on thing that you like. Bro, you are not downgrading 
to E90 but you change to the car you like in the coming year. Btw, have you got the AC mirror do up?Back to the topic;
How about SC the M54 2.2l, it will outperform the M54 3.0l in all aspect.
(according to some German tuner, the std 2.2l chassis/brake able to cope with it)
For M54 2.2/2.5l auto after SC
184kW (250BHP)/5990rpm
Max Torque: 320Nm/3550rpm
0-100 km/: 6.5sec
Any comment?
Racebred
Core Group Members
generally, if you get ANY sc kit, or any mods for that matter, that comes with TUV approval, it simply means that the bolt-on kit is compatible in emissions and safety aspects with the rest of the stock car. meaning you dont have to change anything else like brakes or suspension to complement it.
because it has passed all compatibility tests with an otherwise stock car by the official authorities.
because it has passed all compatibility tests with an otherwise stock car by the official authorities.
yendor
Well-Known Member
RB,
I would like to offer a different point of view that is when TUV gives the certification, the car is still able to meet the required safety and enviromental conditions. It does not take into account relaibility of certain parts lke gearboxes and the entire drive train. When modding a car with serious gains, the brakes needs to be upgraded correspondingly as the availble braking torque from the stock brakes needs to cope with the extra accelerative forces offered by the souped up motor before it can start to decelerate the car. In addition the heat loads on the discs and pads may mean disc warps and brake fades especially when tracking.
IMO, even with TUV certification, I would recommend that the brakes be upgraded before the engine goes in. The gearbox and torque converter is a secondary issue that does not pose much of a safety consideration as a failure means no go. A failure with brakes means no stop...
JHLim
Personally I have played around with engine blocks and such to raise power. The rewards are very satisfying especially if the bottom end is well balanced and the head is properly sorted out. If you had the budget to fully convert your car then you should go for it and perform a complete re-build with a blue printed engine (fully balanced if possible) with a ported, skimmed and flowed head. The ECU too should be swapped as the fueling requirements are different. In addition, install a piggyback to fine tune the AFR and ignition to take advantage of the higher compression. End state, you will out perform the stock 3.0 engine and the very big plus point is that your engine is completely new. (no oil leaks, compression problems, dirty valves, carbon filled cyl heads..... you catch my drift?) Of course if you are so lucky to get into an accident, the insurance companies will never pay out if they find out. that's why i now good boy.... adding a turbo in is considerd an exhaust mod and carries a fine of $500 if I can remember correctly. Adding a SC is considered an engine mod and carries a fine of $2000. Changing your engine CC is considered cheating and is a criminal offence....
In this country the engine conversion bit is a little scary but in other countries where the taxation is not based on CC then the engine swap sounds very very delicious.... 
just my 2 cents worth.
I would like to offer a different point of view that is when TUV gives the certification, the car is still able to meet the required safety and enviromental conditions. It does not take into account relaibility of certain parts lke gearboxes and the entire drive train. When modding a car with serious gains, the brakes needs to be upgraded correspondingly as the availble braking torque from the stock brakes needs to cope with the extra accelerative forces offered by the souped up motor before it can start to decelerate the car. In addition the heat loads on the discs and pads may mean disc warps and brake fades especially when tracking.
IMO, even with TUV certification, I would recommend that the brakes be upgraded before the engine goes in. The gearbox and torque converter is a secondary issue that does not pose much of a safety consideration as a failure means no go. A failure with brakes means no stop...
JHLim
Personally I have played around with engine blocks and such to raise power. The rewards are very satisfying especially if the bottom end is well balanced and the head is properly sorted out. If you had the budget to fully convert your car then you should go for it and perform a complete re-build with a blue printed engine (fully balanced if possible) with a ported, skimmed and flowed head. The ECU too should be swapped as the fueling requirements are different. In addition, install a piggyback to fine tune the AFR and ignition to take advantage of the higher compression. End state, you will out perform the stock 3.0 engine and the very big plus point is that your engine is completely new. (no oil leaks, compression problems, dirty valves, carbon filled cyl heads..... you catch my drift?) Of course if you are so lucky to get into an accident, the insurance companies will never pay out if they find out.
that's why i now good boy.... adding a turbo in is considerd an exhaust mod and carries a fine of $500 if I can remember correctly. Adding a SC is considered an engine mod and carries a fine of $2000. Changing your engine CC is considered cheating and is a criminal offence.... In this country the engine conversion bit is a little scary but in other countries where the taxation is not based on CC then the engine swap sounds very very delicious....
just my 2 cents worth.
marko-polo
Well-Known Member
JHLim, give it a miss cause it's really not worth the hassle and more so to be on the wrong side with the law here in Singapore.
