BMW ICE installer to recommend?

since u have already committed, then its better u start to enjoy it, and trust tye's 40yrs of experience. Forumers have rated Tye quite highly, but every shop has its own critics.

I still dont think u need 9 speakers, and a preamp is probably suggested by Tye to compensate for the inadequacy in the stock HU. SOme seasoned wud argue against pre-amp, so u may wanna consider droppin the pre-amp, drop some speakers by jus gettin a good pair of front components, then use the "saved" money to invest in a good headunit. As duckduck said, it depends on many variables, but generally, higher power = cleaner sound, if all things constant.

anyway, your installer could be reading this...haha...
 
Have had some work done at Tye previously and found that they are quite good. Maybe a little on the pricey side, but the work is generally of a high standard. No harm giving them a try since they do quite a number of BMWs there.
 
ahhh.. that's good to know.. thank you!.
:thumbsup:
 
Shaaz, Tye Electronics is good, but they tend to push Lanzar.

Besides, PML recognised them as a worthy ICE installer, and PML is ready to back you up if there is any electronic failure after Tye's work.
That is the arrangement PML has with Tye.

If you are the only one in the car most of the time, I would strongly
suggest you focus your upgrade on a good pair of front speakers
( I think Tye carries Focal as well if you are into vocal CDs) with an
amp to drive them. Let your current stock HU drive the rear doors.
In addition, fix up the subwoofers with amps as well.

That should do it.
 
Yea.. thanks cab driver. Albert (boss) i think... is giving me 2 big amps, 2 10" subs, one pre amp and 9 speakers. he asked me one kind of music i like to listen, so i told him loud and good.. so far i think it's ok.. but i might get him to get 2 seperate amps to go with the subs, and one more for the speakers.i dunno if 2 big amps is enough to hold everything.. :thinking:
 
shaaz,

Depends on what the 2 big amps are putting out. Do you know? Rule of thumb, the way I usually do it is one amp to run the 6 inches (abt 150 watts RMS x2), one amp for the 4 inches (100 watts RMS x2), one for the tweeters (75 watts RMS x2), one for the rear speakers (50 watts RMS x2) and one monoblock for the subs (1000 watts RMS x2). But if you are going with 2 big amps then if they put out 75 watts per channel then ok. You might want to consider a separate amp for the sub though.
 
so u saying basically.. it's just better to have amps for the subs alone right?... will check with tye how many watts the amps will be pushing..
maybe i should get 2 more amps the speakers uh?... so that will be 2 amp to 2 10" subs, and 2 amp to 9 speakers?. u think that's ok?. :thinking:
 
Better to have an amp powering the subs alone. thus, maybe if you want, one large amp (1000 watts plus) for the 2 subs then maybe depending on the power output, 2 to 3 amps for the speakers. Better to have separate components, easier to tune but you have to be running an active cross over setup.
 
running an active cross over setup???? :thinking: .. meaning?... im abit lost. ehee.. :|
 
ermm.... cross overs are the things which determine what frequency of signals go to which speakers. with passive cross overs, you can't adjust the cross over points, but with active cross overs, you can.
 
oh .. yea.. ok got it.. went down jsut now to tye .. so all's good now.. thanks bro .
:dance:
 
ok... so should i get one amp (1000w) for the 2 subs to share?. then the speakers (840w) for all the speakers?. or should i go for 1 amp (840w) drive one sub each. then another (840w) to drive the speakers or maybe should i go higher??.. i wanna go loud .. so .. bro.. if u can let me know wat u think .. then it'll be good. Right now the config for the sysytem i agreed on is (1000w)amp drive 2 subs, (840w) drives all speakers. what do u think ?. :thinking:
 

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