Under Front Seat woofer and ICE suggestions for E60

[keny]

Been trawling the pages here and not much talk about the two 8” woofers under the front seat. I read from other post that they are especially flat units to clear the seat mechanism. Also, Pioneer TS-SW841D seems to fit. Anybody here with pictures of these enclosures? And will changing these 2 speakers make any real difference?

I plan to fit 2 freeair 10” woofers on the rear parcel shelf, change the rear speakers to another set of better 4” components, and change the components in the front doors.

Has anybody here ever cut the bottom portion of their door to fit a 6.5” speaker? Reason I ask these questions is because I have some stuff from my previous rides and I am trying to save some $$$ by utilizing them.

Actually, I’ve got two Lanzar Opti 2 (50x2, 75x2) channel amps, an Infinity (50x4) four channel, a pair of Infinity reference 6.5” splits, a pair of 10” kicker freeair, 1PPI preamp and a Brax capacitor.

I was wondering if anybody here can give me some suggestions on what is the most cost effective solution to utilize the stuff or if anything else is needed to complete my system.

I know I will probably need a new amplifier to power the subs as my Soundstream 705 I used to power the system has finally given up the ghost.

I know that most audio shops shun setups like that because profit margin isn’t too good. Could anybody point me to one that wouldn’t mind using some of my old stuff?

Thanks in advance

[vegadonovan]

Hi Keny,

Profit margin is relative to them. Let them worry about it. State your objectives and your eventual scenarios and make them do it. They will charge you for the labour. It could be 200-300 for labour alone. Or it could be less.

I installed a woofer box in the trunk. They tap the signal from the rear speakers pair. Charged me 100.

They changed out all the speakers( Bought new from them) in my e46 and put in my old AMP and charge me labour 100 also.

They will always make enough to cover their business. So go ahead and bring your own stuffs over.

Enjoy!

[vegadonovan]

Forgot to add. So my thoughts are: Every shop is the same; just make sure they are professional and watch them all the way. Because certain things when not careful can never be mended back to original condition again.

=)

[keny]

Thanks for the info. Any recommendations of shops that are familiar with my car or your personal favourite?

[vegadonovan]

The shop that I went to have my audio done was not satisfactory. So I wouldn't want you to risk it. You could try the audio shop at Odeon Katong. At the ground floor Or Pin Liang. Seems alright.

Go there with a budget and stick to it. If not you can double your spending for some minor enhancements to the overall setup.... Just say you don't have anymore cash.

These 2 are the shops I would try in the future.

[oneHeadlight]

Hi Keny,

u may wanna consider going 3 way in front, rather than using the 4" at the rear, which may cause cancellation if u are not careful.

[keny]

Actually i was going for a 6.5" reference splits in the front doors without the 4" and replace the back with another set of 6.5" kappa splits plus the 2 freeair 10" on the parcel shelf with a cut in the panel. What do you think of this setup? How much power do you think i need for the subs? I'm powering the fronts 100w/ch, rear 25w/ch and 350w for the bridged woofers. Do you think adding an extra amp for the below seat subs would make any difference?

[oneHeadlight]

i m in serious lack of sleep but hopefully i catch u correctly...

u are gonna mod your door such that it fits a 6.5" midbass right ?
i assume your tweets are either to be mounted on A pillar or dashboard ?
there is a pair of 4" u intend to use ?
u will still use those funny stuff under the seats...?
u still wanna have speakers in the rear ?

this is wat i think....

forget about the stuff under the seat.
if u are going 5.1, then maybe u can spend money on the rear, else its not really necessary. If u still wanna have the rear, go for co-axials will do.

100w/ch, i assume its 100wrms. For tweets and mid (4") , its fine.
But for your midbass, its way way lacking.

350w into your free-air subs wouldnt be good enough. Free-air subs are alot more difficult to control, and usually u would want ALOT of power into it/them. Go for as much power as u can afford, from a decent brand at least.

[keny]

Thanks for the tips.

Actually, it’s just a 6.5" mid bass at base of front door (need to cut and modify a MDF plate)and tweeter in pillar beside mirror.

Back its another 6.5" split but might have to mount these on a plate of MDF as the holes are for a 4" split.

Then on the back board, 2 10" free airs.

No 4" speakers anywhere (just leaving the original 4" in the front doors but not connected as have to get a separate crossover). After your advise, will leave the under seat sub running on the stock amp.

How much power do you think I need for the subs? I used about 350w the last time and it sounded ok to me.

Maybe my ear not so sensitive.

Just a simple setup would be ok. Don’t need any fancy stuff as got no more cash liao.

[oneHeadlight]

sorry....i am seriously confused.. u wanna have the subs below the seat...and u want the pair of free-air 10" ?

and basically, its 2 way front components right ? Don't mount the tweets inside the thingy besides the mirror, u are better off having them on the dashboard.

the simplest set up u could go is to disable the subs under the seat, forget about the rear speakers also. So its just

front component speakers
rear - 2 free air subs

if 350w watts sounds fine to u, stick to it. Its easy to get influenced by 3rd party, but afterall, its your money and your ears.